since there is no codes you might have the freeze frame data looked at it
may
show a pending code and what is the adapitve pids doing?
i have replaced brand new fuel pumps that failed in minutes and also in a
couple
weeks after timing belt and dist . replacement was timing checked
if you question the map sensor unplug then try starting it under the
conditions
and see if there is any improvements or it was worse.
Randy Pape wrote:
> This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five
months.
> This experience with this car proves to me why I never want to take my
car
> to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five weeks and two
mechanics
> later, who were both highly recommended, my car still isn't right. This
car
> has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water pump, EGR valve, PCV
valve,
> fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, oil and
> filter, coolant temp sensor and battery. The original problem started
with
> what I was told was a bad fuel pump. Then after that was changed, it
turned
> into a hard-starting, no power issue. The first mechanic told me he
checked
> the catalytic converter, which he never did. He also said he did vacuum
> tests and changed the intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And
after
> two weeks in his shop, he told me it was either my computer,
distributor, or
> timing belt.
>
> Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said he
did
> a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing, put in
an
> oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car still runs
> terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I
remember it
> to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's power getting
to
> the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I noticed the engine
was
> warm, so of course, it started fine and ran good all the way home. So
they
> must have run the car just before I got there so I could get it out of
their
> garage, and out of their hair .
>
> Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it
will
> hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running.
Once
> the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we could shut it off
and
> it started right up and idled fine. Do any of you knowledgeable people
out
> there have any ideas where I can go look now? Perhaps the map sensor?
IAC
> motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR valve? All of these, from what I've
> read and researched, could possibly be part of my problem. I know these
can
> all be tested with a volt meter, which I know how to use. I will
probably
> perform these tests over the weekend. All of these tests were supposed
to
> have been done by both of these mechanics. There are NO codes coming up
at
> all and forgive me if I'm coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after
this
> much time and money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right.
> Thanks for any info or advice.
>
> p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just haven't
found
> one yet.
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