To test if it's a leaky injector (as suggested below), when you start up
the
car, turn on the ignition but don't hit the starter right away -- give it
a
few seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the system (including the part
that leaked out). If this pause in the startup sequence cures the hard
starting, it tells you that the leaky injector suggestion is on target.
"Bill Putney" <bptn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:64j4teF2be8a0U1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Randy Pape wrote:
>> This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five
>> months. This experience with this car proves to me why I never want to
>> take my car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five weeks
>> and two mechanics later, who were both highly recommended, my car still
>> isn't right. This car has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water
>> pump, EGR valve, PCV valve, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug
>> wires, cap and rotor, oil and filter, coolant temp sensor and battery.
>> The original problem started with what I was told was a bad fuel pump.
>> Then after that was changed, it turned into a hard-starting, no power
>> issue. The first mechanic told me he checked the catalytic converter,
>> which he never did. He also said he did vacuum tests and changed the
>> intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after two weeks in his
>> shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or timing
belt.
>>
>> Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said he
>> did a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing,
put
>> in an oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car still
>> runs terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I
>> remember it to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's
>> power getting to the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I
>> noticed the engine was warm, so of course, it started fine and ran good
>> all the way home. So they must have run the car just before I got there
>> so I could get it out of their garage, and out of their hair .
>>
>> Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it
>> will hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it
>> running. Once the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we
>> could shut it off and it started right up and idled fine. Do any of you
>> knowledgeable people out there have any ideas where I can go look now?
>> Perhaps the map sensor? IAC motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR valve?
>> All of these, from what I've read and researched, could possibly be
part
>> of my problem. I know these can all be tested with a volt meter, which
I
>> know how to use. I will probably perform these tests over the weekend.
>> All of these tests were supposed to have been done by both of these
>> mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at all and forgive me if I'm
>> coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this much time and
>> money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right. Thanks for
any
>> info or advice.
>>
>> p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just haven't
>> found one yet.
>
> Here's something to consider and try: It may be that an injector is
> leaking down when it sits. That would explain the hard starting and
rough
> idle initially, then starts and runs fine, and starts fine when off for
> only short time (leaky injector would empty out fuel rail over a long
> sitting time, requiring fuel pump to refill and pressurize the rail at
> next startup).
>
> On some forums I have been on, if that is the problem, running a good
> injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel very often is re****ted
to
> fix the problem. Techron™ or Sea Foam™ - both available at the auto
parts
> store - both are known to work well if that is the problem.
>
> I hope something works for you.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address
> with the letter 'x')
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