When measuring parasitic draw, the car needs to be "prepared" beforehand.
It
can take up to 45 minutes for all modules to "go to sleep". Something as
simple as opening a door can wake a module up.
Preferred method... open all the doors and trip the latches so that the
GEM
"sees" them as being closed. Make your connections with your ampmeter and
leave the car for at least 45 minutes. When you pull fuses, start with the
CJB (underdash fuse panel)... Keep track - once a fuse is removed - do not
reinstall it until the process is finished. If the fuse is reinstalled too
early, it can wake a module up and skew your test results....
"Jay" <kcalbin@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:1IWdnbGitq8nBTLanZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Hello folks,
> I have a 95 Explorer 4 door XLT with manual transmission and 133,000
> miles. I was in Ottawa on business last week and my wife called and
told
> me that Exp. was barely turning over when she tried to start it, but it
> would run fine when it did start. When I got home and tried to start it,
> it would even turn over. A volt meter across the battery read 9.2
volts.
> So I removed the battery and charged it and reinstalled it. I then
> measured the current draw with the key out of the ignition. I got a
> reading of 390 mA. This seems to be excessive. I believe I read that
the
> draw should be no more than 50 mA. I verified that all of the interior
> lights were off. I then went to the power distribution panel and
started
> removing fuses. Current draw went to zero when I pulled the 60A I/P
fuse
> panel fuse. I reinstalled that fuse and went to the fuse panel inside.
> When I pulled fuse 27 the current draw dropped to 220 mA. I think this
is
> the fuse that protects the interior lights. When I pulled fuse 25,
> current went to zero. This fuse protects the always hot, 12v feed to
the
> GEM. So I think I have sort of isolated the problem, but I don't know
> what to do now? Does anyone have an suggestions or ideas? Thanks.
>
> Jay
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