On May 19, 8:29=A0am, N8N <njna...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> On May 19, 1:08=A0am, "Steve W." <csr684...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > hillpc wrote:
> > > Got a buddy of mine's 66 Mustang over here to troubleshoot no
brakes,
> > > among other problems. =A0Manual drums. =A0Been sitting for several
yea=
rs.
> > > Master cylinder empty, front drivers brakes all dirty and gunked up,
> > > looking oily, so I suspect wheel cylinder slight leak. No other
> > > obvious leak points, though the metal brake line going to the back
> > > looks so heavily rusted I wouldn't trust it, especially with the
> > > single reservoir master cylinder. =A0I put fluid in the old master
> > > cylinder and there's absolutely no pedal firmness, though I haven't
> > > bled any wheel cylinders yet. =A0I did let some fluid out the little
> > > allen plug on the front bottom of the master cylinder. =A0The brand
ne=
w
> > > fluid immediately turned dirty opaque brown after pumping the
brakes.
> > > And to top it all off, the rubber gasket will not fit back inside
the
> > > cap now. =A0Do these things grow in size or is there some trick to
> > > installing them (and which way is up)? =A0My inclination at this
point=
> > > is to buy a new or rebuilt master cylinder and front drivers wheel
> > > cylinder. =A0Any comments?
>
> > They swell if they get contaminated with any type of petroleum
product.
> > I would replace the master, ALL rubber lines and all wheel cylinders.
> > Also you will want to look over the steel lines REALLY close. If they
> > look rusty replace them. Being a popular vehicle there are all
stainless=
> > kits available as bolt on items to replace the lines. Not really cheap
> > bust for a pony car I'd spend the money.
>
> > Keep in mind that a car is rather difficult to stop if the brakes
fail.
> > How much is your friends life worth?
>
> > --
> > Steve W.
> > Near Cooperstown, New York
>
> > Life is not like a box of chocolates
> > it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
> > what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> What Steve said. =A0The swollen gasket is a sign that you should not
> trust ANY rubber in the system, period. =A0it's time for a full brake
> job including hoses. =A0If the shoes are not contaminated you can reuse
> them but everything hydraulic should be cleaned and rebuilt - or just
> buy new wheel cylinders if you don't feel comfortable doing them
> yourself (probably not a bad idea, at least 50% of the time when
> trying to rebuild you will find at least one cylinder with pits that
> won't hone out.) =A0Replace all hoses, replace or rebuild the master
> cylinder, and consider buying a new brake hard line kit for the
> vehicle - being a popular model you can probably get new all stainless
> lines from any number of vendors.
>
> You probably can get "driveway brakes" by bleeding them; the fact that
> one front wheel was oily tells me that it leaked all the way down so
> there's tons of air in there. =A0I wouldn't drive more than in and out
> of the garage like that though.
>
> Now is a good op****tunity to remove the backing plates, bead blast and
> paint them, weld up any grooves that have formed where the shoes ride,
> and repack the wheel bearings.
>
> good luck
>
> nate
Forgot to mention...
also disassemble and clean the star wheels and put a good coat of anti-
seize on the thread. If these have self adjusters replace them if
they look too grungy or if any of the cables have broken - they're
generally not expensive at your FLAPS. A shop manual will likely tell
you to replace all the springs and "nails" as well - I don't always do
that, but again, they're cheap and I definitely would if any of them
look weak or overly corroded.
nate
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