"jim beam" <spamvortex@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:Yr-dnXl28aSm1pTVnZ2dnUVZ_hudnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> NetDoe wrote:
> > "jim beam" <spamvortex@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> > news:yL-dnXRj7oJ5oJTVnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> NetDoe wrote:
> >>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
> >>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
> >>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
> >>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
> >>> wallet?
> >>>
> >>> -Zilla
> >>>
> >>>
> >> no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:
> >>
> >> 1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on
the
> >> cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.
> >>
> >> 2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
> >> fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash
with
> >> water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
> >> water into an open brake reservoir!
> >>
> >> as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
> >> kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding
a
> >> new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
> >> all the way to the floor to expel all the air.
> >
> > Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
> > protect
> > against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
> > Is that necessary?
> >
> >
>
> theoretically, yes. but reality is, especially if you bleed at the m/c
> first, you can get away without it. [you didn't pay for this advice, so
> use it at your own risk!]
>
So when you say "especially if you bleed at the m/c
first" you imply bench-bleeding?
Where is the bleeder valve for the ABS modulator, or is it obvious?
My Hanes manual does not show it.
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