NetDoe wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:Yr-dnXl28aSm1pTVnZ2dnUVZ_hudnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> NetDoe wrote:
>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:yL-dnXRj7oJ5oJTVnZ2dnUVZ_q2hnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> NetDoe wrote:
>>>>> I have the Hanes manual, and the procedure seems
>>>>> straight-forward enough (I'm mechanically inclined).
>>>>> However, what are some "gotchas"? Also any recomms
>>>>> for an effective brake-bleeding kit that won't bleed my
>>>>> wallet?
>>>>>
>>>>> -Zilla
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> no gotchas - it's very straightforward. a couple of tips though:
>>>>
>>>> 1. fit the cylinder dry, then bleed at the brake pipe junctions on
the
>>>> cylinder before bleeding the rest of the system at the calipers.
>>>>
>>>> 2. keep plenty of water handy in case of spillage. never wipe brake
>>>> fluid off paintwork, the paint will come off with it. simply wash
with
>>>> water, then don't touch, even if you're tempted to. and don't spill
>>>> water into an open brake reservoir!
>>>>
>>>> as for bleeding kits, don't waste any money on one - use the neighbor
>>>> kid to help you, if you don't have one of your own. you're bleeding
a
>>>> new cylinder, so make sure you bleed properly - get the pedal pressed
>>>> all the way to the floor to expel all the air.
>>> Ok thanks. I plan to drape plastic over the left-front fender, just to
>>> protect
>>> against spillage. Also the manual mentions bleeding the ABS modulator.
>>> Is that necessary?
>>>
>>>
>> theoretically, yes. but reality is, especially if you bleed at the m/c
>> first, you can get away without it. [you didn't pay for this advice,
so
>> use it at your own risk!]
>>
>
> So when you say "especially if you bleed at the m/c
> first" you imply bench-bleeding?
no, do it with the m/c /in/ the car - bleed at the brake line screws.
you'll find that once fitted, if you fill the reservoir and simply wait,
most of the time, the m/c will bleed itself. once the bubbles stop
coming out of the line screws, then get your assistant to press down on
the pedal to ensure all air is expelled, then hold while you tighten.
and make sure you use a proper flare nut wrench. using a standard open
end wrench is a great way to ruin the hex flats and make life very
difficult for yourself.
>
> Where is the bleeder valve for the ABS modulator, or is it obvious?
> My Hanes manual does not show it.
>
>
you need to take the haynes manual, separate all the pages and roll each
one into a crumpled ball, collect into a heap, douse with gasoline, then
apply a source of ignition. after you've finished dancing on the ashes,
go to helminc.com and buy the proper honda workshop manual. it costs
more, but it helps you with questions just like this by actually
answering them. the best tool you'll ever buy for that vehicle.
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