jim beam5/5/08 8:53uIWdnWL99qDUnoLVnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Armand wrote:
>> In article <WOednaYjBc1yR4DVnZ2dnUVZ_gSdnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>,
>> spamvortex@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
says...
>>> Armand wrote:
>>>> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I
guess
>> I
>>>> have to expect expenditures like this for a 13 year old car.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> In article <Xns9A945A2E0DF08tegger@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>,
>> tegger@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> says...
>>>>> Bluzeguitar@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(Armand) wrote in
>>>>> news:Mt1Tj.288$JF1.245@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>>>
>>>>>> I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new
rotors
>>>>>> and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He said the
>>>>>> "front end" has to be removed so it's mostly a labor issue. Thanks
>>>>>> for any advice.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> That's correct. The steering knuckle has to be removed from the car
and
>> the
>>>>> hub pressed off before the rotor can be removed.
>>>>>
>>>>> Honda changed the design for the '98 model year to make rotors
easier
>> to
>>>>> remove. You still have the old, bad design.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Tegger
>>>>>
>>>>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>>>>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>>>
>>> but the real question is why you think you need the rotors replacing
in
>>> the first place. what are the symptoms you're experiencing?
>>
>>
>> Heavy pulsing of the brake pedal and the rotors were already cut twice.
>>
>
> typically, this is solvable by cleaning the wheel interface, disk and
> wheel, then smearing a little anti-seize. re-torquing the lug nuts is
> critical too. needs to be in the correct sequence, with a torque
> wrench, in a 2 or more step process. it's very common for shops to use
> air tools when tightening and what you're experiencing is the result.
>
> last thing - try the above and see if it works. if not, go ahead and
> get the rotors replaced. in my experience, once a disk is cut, the
> problem becomes much less soluble.
>
Excess heat especially when combined with uneven lug nut torque can cause
problems. Every source of heat build up needs to be checked and eliminated
before the rotors are replaced or it will happen again. Hoses can develop
broken inner linings that act as check valves and do not release applied
pressure much like the check valves in our veins. Frozen slide "ways" on
the
calipers or frozen slide pins will cause brake drag. Pushrod adjustment is
a
another source of dragging brakes and thus excess heat. There have been
several really good posts on this topic lately with detailed descriptions
on
how to isolate the problem. Check this group and alt.autos.honda.
Another source of heat that is often overlooked because it is not obvious
is
pad composition. When I worked at a Ford (ugh!) garage as a service
manager,
there was a problem with Torino station wagons where the composition of
the
brake pad material allowed transfer of friction material to the surface of
the rotor and so you ended up with two high friction surfaces instead of
one
and brake application generated twice as much heat. Not until the pads
were
replaced with a new updated pad material and the rotors cleaned of old
residue and trued up did the problem of warped rotors disappear. If the
pads
you are using are aftermarket, then ditch them. Ask the dealer if there is
Tech bulletin or service news item on this problem and go from there. If
the
pads have an updated part number use those instead of the old number.
--
Pickleman
halfsour@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
remove "yourpants" to reply
1998 Civic HX MT with 142K
2000 CRV EX MT with 98K
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