As for the brakes, I am thinking rotor replacement with some
'cheapies'.... my father in law decided to do me a favour while we
were resurrecting this car, he thought the car may not pass safety
inspection with visible rust on the disks... (actually that is pretty
likely, most shops will try to use any leverage they can to get extra $
$ for parts outta you) so on the way from his place to the shop (about
20km highway drive) he spent the whole time speeding up and braking
hard. He said he did this to the point where the brake fluid was so
hot, the brakes wouldn't work anymore... Wish he woulda just left it
alone, I would have rather argued with the shop than have to replace
the rotors.... :(
Finally did the oil change and transmission fluid rotation yesterday.
The 2 year old oil in this car looked great still, I'm glad I ran the
car for a couple weeks before changing it... gave it a chance to clean
the engine out some.
As for the trannie fluid, dropped 2.5 liters out of the trannie, it
looked pretty good, a little particulate in it to make it less than
crystal clear. Also, it looked like regular dexron, especially when I
compared it to the Honda Z1 I added, the colour is very different...
red (dex) vs flourescent pink (z1).
****fts are much softer now... don't let anyone tell you Honda Z1 is a
waste of money.
I will let the trannie run for a couple weeks now and do another fluid
'rotation'... good ole drain and fill....
Also, this being my first time underneath this car for any extended
period... I was very impressed to see that there is NO corrosion
anywhere on the underside of this vehicle. The outside is rough and
rusty, underneath it might as well be a brand new car... exhaust
system included! Very odd to find a car in this condition at this age
in the Manitoba Rust Belt....
t
On May 6, 10:50=C2=A0pm, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> loewent wrote:
> > Body is not great. =C2=A0Wife hates the car. =C2=A0She says I didn't
'ta=
lk to
> > her enough about it'. =C2=A0oh well... lol
>
> oh well!
>
>
>
> > Will be replacing brake rotors, they are warped.
>
> before you replace, do this:
> scrape off the hub face, and the inside of the wheel so they're both
> free of rust. =C2=A0smear a little antiseize on both surfaces, then
re-tor=
que
> the lug nuts in a 2 or more stage process, in the correct sequence,
> correct torque.
>
> every single time i've ever had a honda go in the shop where they fasten
> wheels with air tools, the disks "warp". =C2=A0every time i do the
above, =
the
> "warp" magically disappears. =C2=A0no disk replacements for me.
>
> > =C2=A0If the bleeder bolts
> > on the calipers aren't too corroded, will do a brake fluid flush as
> > well. =C2=A0Brakes are mushy, hope its not the master cylinder.
>
> sounds like you need to do the bleeding all the way through. =C2=A0need
to=
> open up those bleed nipples even if you drill and replace.
>
> > =C2=A0if I can't
> > get the bleeders off, will use the turkey baster method.
>
> sometimes you can try bleeding at the banjo bolt, but it's not
> recommended because it's easy to make things worse, not better.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Will also do the standard fluid changes, oil and tranny specifically.
> > Coolant is new, PS fluid looks good. =C2=A0Picked up 4L of Honda Z1
> > today.... $40!!! geez....
>
> > A good sign on this car is the OEM oil filter I found underneath.
> > Also found an OEM timing belt brand new in the box in the trunk.
=C2=A0I=
> > will take this as a hint that the timing belt needs to be done soon.
>
> > Hopefully once I replace the fluids, and drive it for a week or 2,
> > some of the other tune up items will make themselves more apparent.
=C2=
=A0I
> > am thinking plugs, plug wires and dist cap and rotor.
>
> > So far so good, and drives like a champ. =C2=A0Just got the old
manitoba=
> > safety inspection done today, it needed some bulbs and a hole in the
> > muffler welded over. =C2=A0$80 later I have a 'road worthy' vehicle...
>
> > t
>
> > On May 4, 10:43 am, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> >> loewent wrote:
> >>> Body is really rough. =C2=A0Good old winnipeg road salt can be
blamed =
for
> >>> that. =C2=A0There is a small hole in one of the rocker panels, we
are
> >>> repairing it. =C2=A0Rust at the bottom of the doors.
> >>> I probably won't spend alot of money on it. =C2=A0I should clarify,
I =
would
> >>> be happy if it lasted 6 months, though I am sure it will go for much
> >>> longer.
> >>> Not sure on the t-belt, will inspect to see if it looks fresh or
not.
> >>> May just swap it out anyways, can't be much different than doing it
on=
> >>> my 98.
> >>> Antifreeze was clean, after sitting 2 yrs, I don't think this one
has
> >>> a head gasket issue.
> >>> Literally put a different battery in and the thing started like it
had=
> >>> been used every day, but in reality had been sitting for over 2
years.=
> >>> t
> >>> On Apr 30, 10:12=EF=BF=BDam, "Elle" <honda.lion...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
wrot=
e:
> >>>> "loewent" <loew...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote
> >>>>> Well the legacy is over, my 98 civic has met its fate on
> >>>>> the back end
> >>>>> of a 93 ranger. =EF=BF=BDI was the only one in the car, and walked
> >>>>> away with
> >>>>> no injuries.
> >>>>> 10500 in damage, it is beyond repair.
> >>>>> So I need a car, don't want to spend the whole insurance
> >>>>> settlement on
> >>>>> a car.
> >>>>> Yesterday I picked up an 89 civic 4 door automatic for
> >>>>> $375. =EF=BF=BDBody is
> >>>>> a little rough, but runs like a charm! =EF=BF=BD276k kms, 171k
> >>>>> miles.
> >>>> Original owner, 91 Civic, 203k miles here. I get parts from
> >>>> 89 Civics at the junkyard all the time for my 91.
> >>>> Why's the price so low? Just the rough body?
> >>>> One thing I am on the lookout for with low priced Civics of
> >>>> this era are failed head gaskets.
> >>>>> Taking it for a safety tomorrow, hoping to get about 6
> >>>>> months to a
> >>>>> year out of er.
> >>>>> Any pointers from anyone on this vintage of civic?
> >>>> Check for oil in the spark plug tubes. For a car this old
> >>>> with this many miles, it's likely the camshaft holder-cyl
> >>>> head O-rings are leaking. OTOH, if you only want it to last
> >>>> six months, maybe you can forego this job.
> >>>> When was the timing belt replaced?
> >>>> Suspension could probably stand rebuilding, butagain, for
> >>>> only six months, I think the above is all I'd be really
> >>>> worried about.- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >> if the body's that bad, i'd just make sure the ignition system was
good=
,
> >> the brakes good, and leave it at that.
>
> >> there's lots more you can do if you want, main relay, valve lash,
> >> t-belt, rear trailing arm bu****ngs, but they're not worth it for a
> >> 6-month gig. =C2=A0unless you want to have a bit of fun. =C2=A0if i
wer=
e going to
> >> thrash it, i'd inspect the t-belt and bu****ngs as a priority.- Hide
quo=
ted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
|
