loewent wrote:
> As for the brakes, I am thinking rotor replacement with some
> 'cheapies'.... my father in law decided to do me a favour while we
> were resurrecting this car, he thought the car may not pass safety
> inspection with visible rust on the disks... (actually that is pretty
> likely, most shops will try to use any leverage they can to get extra $
> $ for parts outta you) so on the way from his place to the shop (about
> 20km highway drive) he spent the whole time speeding up and braking
> hard. He said he did this to the point where the brake fluid was so
> hot, the brakes wouldn't work anymore...
that's less likely to be brake fluid, and much more likely to be cheapo
after-market pads. for about five extra bucks, you get honda pads,
****ms and anti-squeal grease. oh, and very good fade resistance.
> Wish he woulda just left it
> alone, I would have rather argued with the shop than have to replace
> the rotors.... :(
my experience with aftermarket rotors is ok, so consider those if you're
saving bucks on a car like this. don't go for the cheapest chinese
disks though - i've seen casting errors and cracking. stock replacement
brembos from somewhere like summit are just dandy.
>
> Finally did the oil change and transmission fluid rotation yesterday.
> The 2 year old oil in this car looked great still, I'm glad I ran the
> car for a couple weeks before changing it... gave it a chance to clean
> the engine out some.
>
> As for the trannie fluid, dropped 2.5 liters out of the trannie, it
> looked pretty good, a little particulate in it to make it less than
> crystal clear. Also, it looked like regular dexron, especially when I
> compared it to the Honda Z1 I added, the colour is very different...
> red (dex) vs flourescent pink (z1).
>
> ****fts are much softer now... don't let anyone tell you Honda Z1 is a
> waste of money.
indeed. basically, the only people that tell you otherwise are those
with no experience of this!
>
> I will let the trannie run for a couple weeks now and do another fluid
> 'rotation'... good ole drain and fill....
>
> Also, this being my first time underneath this car for any extended
> period... I was very impressed to see that there is NO corrosion
> anywhere on the underside of this vehicle. The outside is rough and
> rusty, underneath it might as well be a brand new car... exhaust
> system included! Very odd to find a car in this condition at this age
> in the Manitoba Rust Belt....
>
> t
>
>
>
> On May 6, 10:50 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>> loewent wrote:
>>> Body is not great. Wife hates the car. She says I didn't 'talk to
>>> her enough about it'. oh well... lol
>> oh well!
>>
>>
>>
>>> Will be replacing brake rotors, they are warped.
>> before you replace, do this:
>> scrape off the hub face, and the inside of the wheel so they're both
>> free of rust. smear a little antiseize on both surfaces, then
re-torque
>> the lug nuts in a 2 or more stage process, in the correct sequence,
>> correct torque.
>>
>> every single time i've ever had a honda go in the shop where they
fasten
>> wheels with air tools, the disks "warp". every time i do the above,
the
>> "warp" magically disappears. no disk replacements for me.
>>
>>> If the bleeder bolts
>>> on the calipers aren't too corroded, will do a brake fluid flush as
>>> well. Brakes are mushy, hope its not the master cylinder.
>> sounds like you need to do the bleeding all the way through. need to
>> open up those bleed nipples even if you drill and replace.
>>
>>> if I can't
>>> get the bleeders off, will use the turkey baster method.
>> sometimes you can try bleeding at the banjo bolt, but it's not
>> recommended because it's easy to make things worse, not better.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Will also do the standard fluid changes, oil and tranny specifically.
>>> Coolant is new, PS fluid looks good. Picked up 4L of Honda Z1
>>> today.... $40!!! geez....
>>> A good sign on this car is the OEM oil filter I found underneath.
>>> Also found an OEM timing belt brand new in the box in the trunk. I
>>> will take this as a hint that the timing belt needs to be done soon.
>>> Hopefully once I replace the fluids, and drive it for a week or 2,
>>> some of the other tune up items will make themselves more apparent. I
>>> am thinking plugs, plug wires and dist cap and rotor.
>>> So far so good, and drives like a champ. Just got the old manitoba
>>> safety inspection done today, it needed some bulbs and a hole in the
>>> muffler welded over. $80 later I have a 'road worthy' vehicle...
>>> t
>>> On May 4, 10:43 am, jim beam <spamvor...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>> loewent wrote:
>>>>> Body is really rough. Good old winnipeg road salt can be blamed for
>>>>> that. There is a small hole in one of the rocker panels, we are
>>>>> repairing it. Rust at the bottom of the doors.
>>>>> I probably won't spend alot of money on it. I should clarify, I
would
>>>>> be happy if it lasted 6 months, though I am sure it will go for much
>>>>> longer.
>>>>> Not sure on the t-belt, will inspect to see if it looks fresh or
not.
>>>>> May just swap it out anyways, can't be much different than doing it
on
>>>>> my 98.
>>>>> Antifreeze was clean, after sitting 2 yrs, I don't think this one
has
>>>>> a head gasket issue.
>>>>> Literally put a different battery in and the thing started like it
had
>>>>> been used every day, but in reality had been sitting for over 2
years.
>>>>> t
>>>>> On Apr 30, 10:12�am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>>>> "loewent" <loew...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote
>>>>>>> Well the legacy is over, my 98 civic has met its fate on
>>>>>>> the back end
>>>>>>> of a 93 ranger. �I was the only one in the car, and walked
>>>>>>> away with
>>>>>>> no injuries.
>>>>>>> 10500 in damage, it is beyond repair.
>>>>>>> So I need a car, don't want to spend the whole insurance
>>>>>>> settlement on
>>>>>>> a car.
>>>>>>> Yesterday I picked up an 89 civic 4 door automatic for
>>>>>>> $375. �Body is
>>>>>>> a little rough, but runs like a charm! �276k kms, 171k
>>>>>>> miles.
>>>>>> Original owner, 91 Civic, 203k miles here. I get parts from
>>>>>> 89 Civics at the junkyard all the time for my 91.
>>>>>> Why's the price so low? Just the rough body?
>>>>>> One thing I am on the lookout for with low priced Civics of
>>>>>> this era are failed head gaskets.
>>>>>>> Taking it for a safety tomorrow, hoping to get about 6
>>>>>>> months to a
>>>>>>> year out of er.
>>>>>>> Any pointers from anyone on this vintage of civic?
>>>>>> Check for oil in the spark plug tubes. For a car this old
>>>>>> with this many miles, it's likely the camshaft holder-cyl
>>>>>> head O-rings are leaking. OTOH, if you only want it to last
>>>>>> six months, maybe you can forego this job.
>>>>>> When was the timing belt replaced?
>>>>>> Suspension could probably stand rebuilding, butagain, for
>>>>>> only six months, I think the above is all I'd be really
>>>>>> worried about.- Hide quoted text -
>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>> if the body's that bad, i'd just make sure the ignition system was
good,
>>>> the brakes good, and leave it at that.
>>>> there's lots more you can do if you want, main relay, valve lash,
>>>> t-belt, rear trailing arm bu****ngs, but they're not worth it for a
>>>> 6-month gig. unless you want to have a bit of fun. if i were going
to
>>>> thrash it, i'd inspect the t-belt and bu****ngs as a priority.- Hide
quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
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