I ordered a cork gasket today, had choice of cork or rubber, thought I
read cork was better somewhere. I wont have to worry about walking away
for
24 hours, it will probably be a month after gasket that I start her up, so
should be well cured.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:481136ba$0$25912$9a6e19ea@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Mine is plastic with only two rocker bridge bolts holding it on and the
> seal lasted me 8 years. I have done YJ aluminum ones the same.
>
> I use cork and get everything super clean with a wipe of brake cleaner
to
> be sure, then I put a skim of RTV on the cork gasket, set it immediately
> like the directions on my Permatex RTV says to, then I put a skim on the
> top of the cork and place the cover. After I torque it down, I walk
away
> for the 24 hour cure Permatex needs.
>
> I tried those POS rubber ones, sucker just poured oil.
>
> I believe your bolts need to be 4 ft lb or something like that. I use
my
> baby finger pu****ng on a 1/4" drive ratchet while holding it with my
> forefinger and thumb at the pivot. Just nice and snug.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
> Greg wrote:
>> So after an hour on google, what is everyones recomendation on doing
>> the valve cover gasket on a CJ7 258 engine, cork, rubber? RTV or not?
>> Torque specs?
>> Installed a rebuilt engine 2 years ago, new gasket leaked a small
>> amount from start, so seeing that engine is sitting in new frame with
no
>> body around it, nows the time for a replace. So if anyone has any
opinion
>> or knows the torque spec I would appreciate it, aluminum cover by the
>> way.
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