I don't understand why folks would go and break the seal the RTV made by
're-torquing' the bolts after it has set.
When the oil hits the gasket after the RTV has set, it expands the cork.
This has the effect of 're-torquing' the bolts.
On plain cork gaskets, a re-torque can be needed sometimes, but if you
have to do this on a RTV seal, the seal has failed and you are trying to
do a compression seal.
Now I 'do' do a second torque pattern tighten after the first one
because the center spiral set usually loosens when the ends get torqued.
This is immediately though.
Mike
RoyJ wrote:
> What Mike says but I do them without the cork.
>
> I'll add a couple of reminders. When Mike says clean, that means REALLY
> clean. The RTV is not compatible with any sort of grease film. I clean
> my valve covers in a 5 gallon bucket full of extremely hot water and
> laundry soap. Top of the engine needs to be scraped, wiped with solvent,
> then hit with brake cleaner, wipe with paper towel. If the paper has any
> discoloration, clean it some more.
>
> Apply Permatex Black with or without the gasket (your choice), set the
> cover on immediately. Open time on the Permatex Black is only about 5
> minutes so you need to move briskly. Tighten the bolts down snug enough
> to make sure all the RTV is contacting the opposite surface. Let it cure
> for 24 hours, spray it with water if you want to push it a bit. Torque
> to spec after the 24 hours is up.
>
> Greg wrote:
>> So after an hour on google, what is everyones recomendation on doing
>> the valve cover gasket on a CJ7 258 engine, cork, rubber? RTV or not?
>> Torque specs?
>> Installed a rebuilt engine 2 years ago, new gasket leaked a small
>> amount from start, so seeing that engine is sitting in new frame with
>> no body around it, nows the time for a replace. So if anyone has any
>> opinion or knows the torque spec I would appreciate it, aluminum cover
>> by the way.
>>
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