earache@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> As ski season winds down and autocross season starts up, I've been
> thinking about learning how to rotate (swap) tires myself. Since
> Sears is having a sale this week, and I don't have any of the
> appropriate tools, I put 2+2 together and have started picking some
> stuff out. If any of you all have a minute, you're welcome to chime
> in on my selections or what I should get, since my experience in this
> area is pretty limited.
>
> Craftsman 2-1/4 ton floor jack, 29.99
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950524000P?keyword=floor+jack
> I was actually looking at some of their more expensive jacks, but they
> seem to get pretty mixed reviews until you step up to the $300 (279.99
> on sale) Craftsman Professional aluminum model. That thing looks
> sweet, but someone said this one works well enough so I figure I'll
> buy in for $30 and see how I like working on the wheels.
I have used a similar one. Lots of pumping the handle for the height
that it is being raised, and much more effort than a larger model, but
they do work.
I think that the professional model takes 3 pumps, maybe two, to get the
Miata raised. That is on my want/must-have list.
> Central Machinery 3 ton jack stands with rubber pads
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38846
> These seem good because they have a groove that might fit well over
> the lip on the underside of the car, which I understand is a good
> place to prop it up?
When I jack the car up for wheel swaps, I put a piece of wood underneath
at the mirror point to distribute the load, then raise the whole side of
the car up.
I stick one jack stand underneath the piece of wood to save the car in
case the jack fails, then just swap them out.
I lower the car onto stands anytime I am underneath it, but this works
fine since I am never in danger of it falling on me during tire swap.
Since the tires I have are always directional, I can only go front to
rear and vice-versa anyway.
> Will I need more than just one pair? I'm thinking two stands is
> enough to prop up the left side, swap front & rear, then repeat with
> the right side.
I have four stands, but have never used more than two on a Miata unless
I was parting it out.
> Craftsman Torque Wrench, 1/2 in. drive, 69.99
>
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944595000P?keyword=torque+wrench
> First of all, I want 1/2 in drive, right? The mixed reviews on
> several of their affordable torque wrenches sort of concerns me.
> Craftsman also makes a dedicated "Tire Torque Wrench" that gets better
> reviews, but it's $140. Sorta hoping this one would be good enough
> for tightening lug nuts.
That will work, the 1/2 inch will go over the 80 foot pounds that you
need.
As far as quality, I have had a Craftsman torque wrench fall apart, but
that was after many years of use and it remained accurate every time I
tested it against a friend's wrench. Or at least, they were equally
inaccurate. ;-)
I have heard that you should only use a torque wrench to tighten, not to
loosen. Not sure how true this is but I have always followed it since
torque wrenches are kind of pricey and I have the tools I need to remove
the lugs.
> Lug nut socket? Where should I get one, is it just a generic socket?
> I have the OEM 16" wheels on a 2003 Shinsen edition.
There can be different sized lugs depending on the wheels that were
used, but it should be a common size and any 1/2" socket that fits and
is deep enough should work.
I would mention to be sure to get a quality socket, but you are already
looking at Craftsman products.
> I'm thinking I might also want a helper wrench or two, curious as to
> what people like.
>
> Gracias & ZZ
> Eric
You won't need a helper wrench to torque them, plenty of leverage to hit
80 foot pounds from the long handle on the torque wrench.
A long-handled 1/2" socket driver is a wonderful thing when removing
stubborn bolts, but your's are probably not too bad at 5 years old
unless a gorilla mechanic has over-torqued them somewhere. :-)
Pat
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