Re: Damaged Bolt Extraction

"sdlomi2" <sdlSPAMomi2@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in
news:IUBTj.49648$%15.29752@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

> 
> "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message 
> news:481E7457.3A1D4DCC@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> I'm in the process of pulling the drive plate off a vehicle to
>> replace the rear main seal. In the process of loosening the 10 bolts,
>> I managed to bugger up the heads on two of them. The socket I was
>> using slipped off and rounded off a couple of shoulders on the bold
>> head. 
>>
>> When this happened, I stopped screwing with them in order to minimize
>> further damage. There are several methods for removing such bolts.
>> Prior to drilling and seriously messing around, I seem to recall some
>> special damaged bolt sockets (with helical teeth in them). What are
>> these called? Are they any good (the bolts are 14 mm, torque to 75
>> ft-lbs). Who would carry them in the Seattle area? Any tips when
>> using these? Or other advice?
> 
>     Your idea should work--for an idea of the torque, lots of lug
>     bolts are 
> more than 75 ft-lbs.--80, 90, 95 are a few common ones.  If you have
> an acetylene outfit and the surrounding metal/oil can accept it, the
> bolts when heated red will screw out with vice grips.  Just another
> way to accomplish the same thing.  When stranded, sometimes a metric
> sized socket which is a tad too small can be driven onto the stripped
> bolt head and remove it. Six-point sockets may also help.  s
> 
> 
> 


I've had good success with using a Dremel to grind a new hex on the 
stripped bolt, then hammering a smaller socket onto the new hex.

I've also used this method on bolts whose heads are so badly rusted that 
they're both rounded and smaller than the original socket. 

And in my personal opinion, nobody should ever be using 12-point sockets 
on any automotive fastener unless it's very small.


-- 
Tegger