Re: Damaged Bolt Extraction

On May 5, 11:31=A0pm, "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <p...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Dan_Thomas_nos...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
>
> > On May 5, 11:35 am, spamTHIS...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
>
> > > Or, you can find a local buddy with a mig welder and buy him a
6-pack,=

> > > just weld a nut right on.
>
> > =A0 =A0 Or any old piece of scrap iron can be welded on. The heat also
> > helps loosen things. In a former life I was a shop foreman in a
> > remanufacturing shop, and we used the weld-and-wait-15-seconds-and-
> > then-twist-it-out method almost exclusively with stuck stuff. The 15
> > seconds gives the heat time to penetrate and break loose any
> > corrosion. If it was in a zinc/aluminum alloy part, it was weld-and-
> > instantly-loosen, or risk melting the alloy.
>
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 But the welding heat and sparks can set fire to oil and
othe=
r
> > crud under there. Have an extinguisher handy. Stay clear of fuel
> > lines.
>
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0Dan
>
> I've ruled out using any dangerous (flammable) or large equipment on
> this project. My truck is in my garage and is too tall to be jacked up
> enough to get the transmission out from underneath it. I just dropped it
> on the ground and slid it back far enough to squeeze in and finish the
> job. If I or anyone else started a fire under there, there would be no
> getting out alive.

In that case if the 6 point sockets don't work I second the
recommendation for the "bolt outs."  They worked for me on some Allen
head bolts with stripped heads, so I expect they would work on a
regular hex head just fine.

nate