BSAKing@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> On May 8, 8:26 pm, Steve B. <n...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 8 May 2008 15:44:56 -0700 (PDT), "BSAK...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>><BSAK...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>
>>>I have to do a brake job on old Betsy and need to totally change the
>>>brake fuid at the same time.
>>
>>>Is it best to totally drain the system, do repairs and then re-fill
>>>eveything?
>>
>>>Or just undo what I have to and block the flow and then fill and bleed
>>>until it is all done?
>>
>>>Or does it make any difference?
>>
>>>If it will not affect or cause issues, number 1 would be best I think
>>>as I have to replace brake caliper seals in all 4 wheels. And I do
>>>want to totally change the fluid as it has been years since it was
>>>done - like 20 or so....
>>
>>>TIA...
>>
>>It's best not to let the system drain.
>>
>>If the system drains you will may have to pull the master cylinder and
>>re bench-bleed it. If the car in question has ABS you may have to
>>follow special procedures to bleed that.
>>
>>If you are replacing the master cylinder too then don't worry about
>>it.
>>
>> Steve B.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I was not intending to do the master unless needed and I think it is
> ok - it is mainly leaking seals on the calipers. I was going to check
> out the brake hoses (probably replace) and lines as they are original.
If you end up replacing the hard lines, they're easy enough to bend
yourself but for a 'vette you can probably get prebent ones from Classic
Tube, Vette Brakes, etc. Stainless is nice and you'll never do that
particular job again if you use it :)
If you're not replacing the MC I recommend either using a pressure
bleeder or else putting a scrap of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you
bleed so you don't wipe out the seals.
nate
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