Re: Is there a hi-temp expanding foam on the market?

the easiest and best way would be remove the head and then do the repair.
So 
much faster...


"Fred Mann" <famnn@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message 
news:v3QVj.1917$Kk3.169@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "jim" <"sjedgingN0sp"@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:1210461952_1998@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>
>> none2u wrote:
>> >
>> > "jim" <".sjedgingN0sp"@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> > news:1210378750_1932@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Fred Mann wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> Unfortunately, everything is so rusted that it would be a massive
>> > >> undertaking to do it right. Not worth it to me.
>> > >> I may try the red RTV though. Thanks!
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Furnace cement ought to work. Get it from a place that sells wood
> stoves.
>> > > Follow
>> > > the instructions for filling cracks. Give it a full day to dry. You
> have
>> > > to make
>> > > sure you get all the moisture out before you get the temp above
> boiling or
>> > > it
>> > > will crack.
>> > >
>> > > -jim.
>> > >
>>
>> >It wont work either. Been there done that. It wont take the gas
pressure
> or
>> >the heat.
>>
>> Yes I hesitated to offer the advice because it probably won't work if
not
>> done correctly. Furnace cement will definitely take the heat - a lot
more
>> heat than a car exhaust usually gets. And it expands  at the same rate
as
>> iron so heat and expansion aren't a problem even if you get the exhaust
>> cherry red.
>> It won't work on tin exhaust parts that flex but for filling a crack
>> where it is rigid and there is no flex it shouldn't be a problem. Of
>> course there is a bit of skill to applying it correctly so that it 
>> adheres
>> and locks itself in. It won't work on furnaces and stoves either when
not
>> applied correctly.
>>
>> -jim
>>
>>
>> >He has to live with it or replace the gasket or manifold.If its
>> >>warped too much.
>
> I think I'll try this next ... if there is a "next" . I JB welded it a
few
> days ago ... maybe it will hold more than a few months. I don't drive
that
> much.
> And by the way, the car is a 1983 VW Rabbit GTI. And the rust problem is
> limited to the nuts and bolts - the manifold seems to be fine. The nuts 
> are
> starting to look like something off of an excavated sea wreck. I don't 
> think
> I have the tools or patience to do it right.
> Thanks again for all of the help!!!
>
>